Where I’d Stay in Durrës: My Personal Picks After 5 Days There

Here’s the problem with almost every guide you’ll find on where to stay in Durrës.

They all tell you to book near the beach.

In this city that’s genuinely bad advice, and I’ll explain exactly why below.

I’ve lived in Albania since 2017 and I stayed in two different places across five days here.

Both were in the same area, and it’s not the one most people would pick off a map.

This is where I’d actually book in Durrës, what I paid, and the one catch you need to know about.

Why I wouldn’t book a beachfront hotel here

Let’s get this out of the way first.

The central beach in Durrës isn’t good. It’s polluted and it’s not somewhere I’d choose to swim.

So paying a premium to be right on it makes very little sense.

In Saranda or anywhere along the Riviera I’d tell you the complete opposite, because down there beachfront is worth every lek.

But here?

Prioritise being near the ruins, the restaurants and the promenade instead, then travel out to Currila when you want a proper beach day.

I’ve compared all of them in my guide to the beaches in durres.

The area I’d actually recommend

Near King Zog’s Villa and Vollga

This was my favourite area and where I spent my whole trip.

Vollga sits right by the boardwalk with plenty of bars and life in the evenings, and the Royal Villa is up on the hill behind it.

The views back over the city from up there are the best in Durrës.

Here’s the catch though.

It’s up a hill.

If you don’t want to be walking a lot, keep that firmly in mind.

It’s only about a 10 minute walk down into the centre, but I’d catch a taxi back up, especially in July and August when it’s pushing 35°C.

Walking uphill in that heat is nobody’s idea of a holiday.

The city centre

Stay here if being close to everything matters more to you than views.

The amphitheatre, the restaurants, the main square and the promenade are all walkable, and you won’t be paying for taxis.

It’s the better choice if you’re only here for a night or two and want to maximise your time.

The trade-off is noise, especially in summer when the city fills up with Albanians escaping the capital.

For nightlife specifically, Vollga by the boardwalk has the most going on after dark.

1. Vila Kaci

I only spent 1 night here between moving between places.

Great views, quiet at night, and close enough to walk into town when the heat isn’t punishing.

It came in at around 50 euro a night including breakfast, which for the location and the view is fair.

It’s simple rather than special, and one night was about right for me.

🛌 What I paid: Around 50 euro a night with breakfast.

Check availability and latest prices for Vila Kaci here

2. Jozi Kaiser

This is the one.

I absolutely loved this place and couldn’t recommend it enough.

It’s also near King Zog’s Villa, in what used to be an old hotel, and it came in at around the same, 50 euro a night with breakfast included.

The difference is everything around the room.

There’s a huge glazed lounge with sofas and sea views, a rooftop terrace you’ll end up sitting on far longer than you planned, and a breakfast that actually means something.

Byrek, olives, tomato, yoghurt, and a plate of figs and grapes and melon that turned up without being asked for.

This is the one I’d book again.

It’s split across four separate apartments, so if one is full try the next.

🛌 What I paid: Around 50 euro a night with breakfast.

• Jozi Kaiser Apartment 1
• Jozi Kaiser Apartment 2
• Jozi Kaiser Apartment 3
• Jozi Kaiser Apartment 4

When to book

Book ahead for July and August, particularly weekends.

Durrës is the closest stretch of coast to the capital so it fills up with Albanians escaping the city, and it fills up fast.

Getting between the two is easy, which is exactly the problem, and I’ve covered the routes in my tirana to durres guide.

Prices drop noticeably outside summer, which is one more argument for shoulder season.

I’ve made the full case in my guide to the best time to visit durres, where September comes out well ahead of August.

💡 Top tip: rates here move a lot between June and October, so if you find something good in shoulder season, take it.

Durrës did feel noticeably cheaper than Saranda and the rest of the Riviera though, which makes sense given it isn’t a premium beach destination.

Is Durrës safe to stay in?

I felt completely comfortable there, including walking back to my place after dark.

What to pack for your stay

A few specifics that genuinely matter here rather than generic packing advice.

• A Type C and F plug adapter, which is what Albanian sockets take.
• Comfortable walking sandals with actual grip, because that hill down from Vollga is steeper than it looks.
• A portable neck fan if you’re coming in summer, since not every apartment has strong air conditioning.

Once you’ve booked

Work out what you’re doing with your days next.

My 3 days in durres itinerary covers the old town, the beach day and the day trip I’d never skip, and there’s plenty more in my list of things to do in durres.

The food is the real reason to come, so have a look at the durres restaurants I’d actually send you to. Liriada is a ten minute walk down the hill and worth every step.

If you want to properly understand what you’re eating, the albania cooking class was my best food experience in the country.

And if you’re still not certain the city deserves your nights at all, I’ve been completely honest about that in is durres worth visiting.

For what’s officially open across the city while you’re planning, Durrës has an official listing.

Have you stayed somewhere in Durrës you’d recommend?

Let me know in the comments, I’m always looking for new places to try!